Shelter can save your life in the mountains. By keeping the elements out and warmth in, spending the night in a tent is the best way to get the most comfortable sleep possible. In this camping gear guide series, we will also cover the importance of sleeping bags and sleeping pads, but those pieces of kit are not much use without an effective tent. Camping on hot nights may be the exception, but you’ll probably want something between you and the bugs. And when climbing into the alpine areas it’s best to be ready for rapid changes in the weather.
The first question one is asked when walking into an outdoor store looking for a tent is: what time of the year do you intend to go camping? If the answer is in the summer, spring or fall (and generally avoiding camping in the snow) then a quality 3-season tent will provide waterproof shelter with mesh panels for adequate ventilation. While these 3-season tents will withstand light downpours, structurally they are not geared to hold up against harsh storms or strong winds.
If you intend to camp on glaciers and cols when backcountry skiing and traversing mountain ranges, then a 4-season tent is the only choice. A 4-season tent uses more poles and stronger fabrics than their 3-season cousins. Ventilation is sacrificed in the name of protection by building them with fewer mesh panels and rain flies that extend to the ground. This makes them a poor choice when camping in warm weather as the air can feel hot and stuffy inside.
This choice again comes down to what sort of environment you intend on camping in. Single-wall tents are just that – one sturdy waterproof layer of fabric between you and the elements. This reduces weight and is quicker setup, particularly useful in the dark or in the middle of a blizzard. However, the reduced ventilation will mean increased condensation. For that reason, single-wall tents are better in cold, dry climates.
Double wall tents are the more common design of a separate tent body and rain fly. This offers the benefits of better ventilation while remaining waterproof but at the cost of increased weight. The rain fly also requires more diligent staking if you expect high winds through the night. A double-wall tent also has the benefit of increased storage space in the vestibules.
Unless you intend on camping at low elevations or out of the back of the car, then you’ll want to opt for a dome or arch/tunnel shape tent. They have less livable space than peak/cabin tents but are more capable of shedding snow and withstanding strong winds.
If you want your tent to last for many years it’s worth investing in a footprint. These are reinforced fabrics that sit on the ground to prevent abrasion damage and add an extra layer for waterproofing. Make sure the footprint is the right size, too big and they can channel water right under the tent.
Also, think about what sort of features you want inside the tent. Are there enough mesh pockets for your items or should you purchase a gear loft (a sort of gear hammock) to get that stuff off the floor? Do you need two doors or is one sufficient? Are you able to hang a lantern from the ceiling to reduce reliance on headlamps?
If you camp in the mountains year-round, over time it can be worth investing in two tents in order to sleep as comfortable as possible. Whichever style you choose, remember to keep your tent in good condition by repairing pinholes and tears promptly. Always allow your tent to dry sufficiently before storage. Apply sealant to the seams if water begins to make its way in.
The season is changing, so make sure you have the right tent for the incoming weather.
Every weekend, tens of thousands of Kenyans load up their vehicles and bed down in campsites across the country. While car camping has its conveniences and comforts, we at Wild Pro Adventures like to wander a bit further from our vehicles before making camp. That means a slightly different choice of gear, particularly when sleeping in the wilderness. As the main interface between your body and the outside elements, your sleeping bag can make or break your camping experience in the mountains. To that end, we’ve rounded up some tips on:
If you want a sleeping bag that’s both portable on the trail and warm enough for cool mountain nights, it’s worth spending a bit more than what you’d find at big box store. For a favourable warmth-to-weight ratio, choose a mummy shape, which is wider at the shoulders and tapers towards the feet. Rectangular bags are far too bulky and don’t compress well into stuff sacks.
Another specification to look for when buying is the temperature rating. Outdoor shop staff generally recommend purchasing a sleeping bag with a temperature range one colder than what you expect to camp in. Minimalists will often choose a lighter fill and stay warm by wearing their down jackets and base layer insulation when sleeping.
Choosing the fill material in your sleeping bag is an important decision and both options have their pros and cons. Down is regarded as the superior product with a far higher warmth-to-weight ratio, better compressibility and longer lasting durability against compression cycles. It’s also expensive and susceptible to moisture. Once wet, down loses most of its insulation and may not recover to its full insulation when dried due to clumping inside the bag’s baffles. But if you care for your down sleeping bag by making sure it’s shielded from moisture as much as possible and allow it dry out properly after each use, it will last for many years.
Synthetic fill bags retain their insulation when wet and recover easily from moisture. For this reason, they are often the choice of mountain campers dealing with rain. However, they are heavier and don’t compress as well as down, meaning the stowed bag will take up more room in your pack. Synthetic fibres will also break down faster after many compression-decompression cycles, which is why that old Candian Tire sleeping bag from your youth doesn’t keep you as warm anymore.
A sleeping bag will only last if you give it the proper care and maintenance. Always, always, store the bag (whether synthetic or down) uncompressed in a breathable storage sack (usually sold with the sleeping bag) or in a pinch, a large garbage bag. This is to avoid damage to the insulation material. If you lack sufficient storage, you can always lay it out uncompressed under your bed.
Moisture will inevitably make its way into your sleeping bag with condensation, perspiration, rain, dew and frost. Try to dry it out of direct sunlight if possible as UV rays can damage some face materials, but getting your bag dry is the priority. Compressing wet down means it won’t insulate until it’s fully dry again, which can be a trip-ender in cold or wet climates.
When the bag inevitably gets dirty or begins to stink, it’s time to wash. Never use regular laundry detergent as it can strip the natural oils from down fibers, so make sure you use a specialized down wash liquid such as Nikwax or Grangers. Synthetic base layer wash can be used for synthetic bags.
Always try to keep your bag out of the way of sharp or heavy objects such as shoes, sticks, rocks or mountaineering tools. Patch any holes as soon as you notice them (duct tape is an excellent field repair) before compressing the sleeping bag. If there’s extensive damage, consider sending it back to the manufacturer for repair.
If you’re serious about camping in the mountains then down is the logical choice for comfort and utility. An important consideration when buying any down, however, is how the material is sourced. Down is made of the fine fibres and plumes from the stomach feathers of geese. Cheap down products have little to no traceability, meaning it could come from farms where geese are live plucked and mistreated. Always buy down from a reputable brand and ask about ethical sourcing when purchasing.
Take the time to research when buying your sleeping bag and you’ll sleep easier.
When camping in the mountains, your greatest enemy is the cold. Ambient air temperature affects your comfort during the day, but when sleeping at night it’s the ground that will sap your body’s warmth. We can guard against the cold with effective base layer clothing and insulated sleeping bags, but for a good night’s sleep you’ll need something between you and the ground (besides a thin tent floor). That means choosing the right sleeping pad for camping in the mountains, both for warmth and for comfort.
Like most camping equipment, sleeping pads come in a price range from as little as $20 for a closed-cell foamie to more than $300 for an ultra-insulated, ultra-comfortable car camping air mattress. Most campers will end up somewhere in the middle.
Closed-cell foam sleeping pads are the most basic, affordable and durable sleeping pads out there. They consist of dense foam with tiny closed air cells for insulation. They are not the most comfortable night’s sleep, but if you want to save weight and don’t mind resting on a harder surface, then a foamie will do the trick. They can also be carried on the outside of your pack in the elements without issue.
Pros: Inexpensive, rugged, lightweight
Cons: Uncomfortable, bulky, not enough insulation for winter camping
Self-Inflating sleeping pads consist of open cell foam sandwiched between two layers of fabric. When the pad is rolled out with the valve open, it will self-inflate as the foam expands and can be topped up with your own breath. The packed volume, however, can be quite bulky depending on the model.
Pros: More supportive than closed-cell foam, excellent insulation, durable
Cons: Heavy, can be bulky
Air sleeping pads are the most practical for mountain travel. They are the most comfortable, the most packable and some models come with synthetic or down fill for extra insulation. Air pads are susceptible to punctures but can be easily repaired (never enter the field without a patch kit). Depending on the fill and the build, air pads come in the widest price range.
Pros: Lightweight, comfortable, packable
Cons: Requires inflation, not as durable, less stable sleeping surface
When shopping for a sleeping pad, you may notice that all pads have (or should have) an R-Value, which is a measure of thermal resistance. The higher the R-Value, the less heat will flow from your body to the ground. For example, a closed cell, 1cm-thick foamie will have an R-Value of approximately 1.4, whereas a down-filled air sleeping pad can have an R-Value as high as 8.0. R-Values are usually (though not always) proportional to the cost of the pad.
Just like we mentioned in the Guide to Camping in the Mountains: Sleeping Bags, everyone has different tolerances to comfort and cold. If you intend on frequently heading into remote locations to camp, a quality air pad is worth the investment. When camping on the ground, always take care of your pad by guarding against sharp objects and be mindful if your dog sleeps in the tent with you. Winter expeditioners will often pack an air pad and a closed cell foamie for extra insulation when sleeping. The foamie also makes a great seat when cooking/eating and can serve as a backup if your air pad punctures or fails.
While many people will look to the coziness of a sleeping bag to keep them warm in the mountains, sleeping pads can be just as much of a factor in a good night’s sleep.